HOT ROD DOD MOD: FX90 analog delay

The holy grail of sound seems to be analog. Why? Because it holds more clarity? Hardly. Because it more accurately captures sound? Nope. Is it because your brain wants to hear all those pops, muddiness, and fizzles? Precisely. Effects are kinda the same. Though diligent programmers have been able to model digital delay and echo in every conceivable form with astronomically long delay times, there is still a demand for the old, limited use, barely functional analog delay effects for making music. Just look at eBay. The prices are high for what is ostensibly outdated technology. And what can I say, I’m one of those jerks who totally goes for it.

DOD FX90 analog delay pedal

The DOD FX90 analog delay is not one of those delays one would call coveted, as it sells used for fairly cheap… why? I’m not sure. I like the delay sound on it. With some coaxing, it will run away and self-oscillate with the best of them. Likely, it’s not that coveted because there are many available. In the after-market for discontinued effects, if it’s rare, it must be AMAZING!

The actual circuit creates makes for a pleasing, warm and dark analog delay, but the construction of the pedal itself is sub-par. I scored a couple for cheap. That is to say, I found them left behind in our jam space and no one claimed them. They didn’t work, so I set out to get ’em going again.

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Operating Theater: Ampeg 1540HE

Some people are simply amazing. And by amazing, I mean amazingly thick.

Here’s the story: Impaled drummer Raul called me from his work, Guitar Center. They were moving locations in the East Bay. They had a used Ampeg 1540HE cabinet they had sold and had been returned. Why? Because whomever sold this used item to Guitar Center did a real cracker-jacked job to fix it. Apparently, Guitar Center employees had never bothered to take off the grill before they bought it. One 10″ speaker and the 15″ speaker were replaced with car stereo sub woofers. WTF? They wanted it gone before they opened the store and let me have it for $50. What a mess. But I got it roaring again and looking okay.

The 1540HE is a fairly specialized cabinet. It’s designed to be paired with an Ampeg 400T rack mount amplifier or any amp that can do bi-amping (Ampeg 200T is another). What’s bi-amping you say? Basically, here you’ve got two cabs in one. The 400T is capable of running like two amps in one and splitting your signal between highs and lows. The theoretical use of the 1540HE is to send highs to the 10″ speakers, lows to the 15″ speakers, then blend and adjust until you get one bad-assed tone.

That’s the theory, anyway, so long as you know how to adjust one of these:

These cabs don’t have a lot of fans online and they weren’t produced for very long. Most numbnutted bass players just stuck an amp on top and plugged in, not accounting for bi-amping. It just doesn’t work as well, as the four 10″ speakers and the one 15″ speaker will not have the same presence from a single signal (say that three times fast). One can end up with weird phase cancellation of the actual sound coming out or just not get the full effect from the top or the bottom.

What really doesn’t make it sound good is when some dickbag puts in subwoofers meant for a car.

That is what I extracted from the cabinet. Speakerotomy. Luckily, I had a 15″ and a 10″ lying around that were perfect replacements. The 15″ I’d actually salvaged from a weird, fancy Hammond PR40 oak enclosure that someone had dumped in Oakland. I nabbed the only speaker left in it, and lo and behold, my pack-ratting paid off. The cab fired up fine and the speakers were all blaring.

A really bad design flaw on the 1540HE is the placement of a high frequency attenuator knob on the jack plate. It sticks out. Now, how many people do you know that load these refrigerator sized enclosures with grace? The damn shaft of the potentiometer had snapped in half. I pulled out the circuit board from the inside and went about figuring a solution.

Replacing this weird pot that had three switches was going to be a bitch. I tried the local moth ball electronics shop, Al Lasher’s, but to no avail. They used to have a tube with set screws for such a problem, but not in 20 years. Instead, I made my own tube with some nylon washers and used 2 ton epoxy to set it. 

I used a 1/4″ thick nylon bolt to extend the shaft of the pot. I got a nice set-screw knob from Al Lasher’s and the back plate was fixed. And ready to be broken again due to piss poor design!

The wood of the cabinet had itself taken a bit of beating. The majority of SLM made Ampeg cabs are comprised of particle board. That’s a far cry from the sturdy baltic birch the originals were constructed of. As soon as the cab starts taking hits from being loaded and unloaded, the edges start to fall apart. There’s really no excuse for this, other than planned obsolescence. I did my best to patch up some nasty wear on the corners where the metal plates had fallen off.

First, I filled in the original screw holes with some toothpicks covered in wood glue. Break these off, and you have a tight fit for a new screw where the old one have stripped out.

I mixed up some wood putty epoxy and molded myself new corners. It’s not as good as wood, but it’ll have to do for a patch up job.

I replaced the metal corners with some from another salvaged cabinet. These can also be ordered from one of my favorite sites, Fliptops.net. They are the best source for Ampeg parts… much better than Ampeg the actual fucking company. The repair job looks rough, and fuck, it is. Short of rebuilding the entire enclosure, this band-aid is the best you can do for this kinda damage. Fuck particle board. 

The tolex had a lot of rips. I put some more glue on these and then just taped it down and hoped for the best. Tolex is awesome and sucks all at the same time. It protects the wood, but when it rips, it’s over. The best is to just try and keep up with the rips as they happen. Cut off small pieces before they become big ones or glue ’em back down.

The casters also had to be replaced with correctly sized ones, not available at any store I’ve found. My only source is Fliptops. The ones the dildo before me had used lifted the cabinet a good 2″ off the ground. His solution? Nail a 2×4 board to the front of the cab. I had a salvaged (again) pair of casters that were Ampeg replacements. I bolted them in, ripped off the 2×4, and added a pair of the large rubber feet that are on all modern Ampeg bass cabs. Finally, I replaced the grill fasteners with some I had ordered awhile back, also from Fliptops. Put it all back together, and it ain’t too shabby.

Does that look okay? I hope so, because I plan on flipping this cabinet. I tried it, and for my money, I prefer a standard 8×10. Of course, like the numbnutted bassists I mentioned before, I’ve only played it with a non-biamp capable amplifier. Sure, it’s plenty loud, but it just didn’t have the same mids and follow-through punch I was used to getting so naturally from my other gear. Hopefully it makes someone else happy and my wallet a tad less skinny. 
Doktor Ross Sewage
www.doktorsewage.com

Happy Trailers

I wrote about my trailer before while on the road with GWAR. Coming back from that trip, I had some clean up work to do on the execrable beast. I thought it merited a little more detail on this often overlooked, but crucial piece of tour gear. 
The trailer I picked up is a 5×8′ EZ-Kargo. Don’t bother looking for the company online, they don’t have a web presence. I can’t find them to get replacement parts because they apparently live in the twentieth century. I got this second hand from some former pop-punk bassist whose dreams died and were reborn into a carpenter. It’s a handy trailer, especially in that it has a ramp for loading, which I think is essential for a band and one’s back.
It’s also pretty awesome for KITT to ride up on so you can meet with Devon Miles to discuss what blackmailed podunk civilian farming family of rednecks the Foundation for Law and Government is gonna waste their time on instead of taking on terrorists. 

As much as I love that loading ramp, those guide wires on the side are a death trap. I’ve seen more than one hapless soul go flying over those during a dark, late-night load out. A handy thing to do is tie on a brightly colored scarf. It does no one any good to have your vocalist crack his head tripping over those… actually, that could probably do everyone a lot of good for them to shut the f up. Much love!

Even though I went without one for the first tour with this trailer, NEVER go out without a spare tire (and corresponding tire iron, natch). One hour outside of Phoenix, I had all the tread rip off a tire on the trailer in 2010. Saints be praised, the tire didn’t blow completely or we might have had an overturned trailer. We were still on time to the show with naught more than a hasty tire change. The trailer didn’t come with a spare or any kind of mount, so I had to buy ’em. I used to have it mounted on the side of the tongue, which was a real pain in the ass. I paid $50 for this tire mount that hung the tire kind of low so it always dragged when we went into shallow driveways. It also blocked a van door on the back from opening.

For $10 I got these tie straps that do the job 110% better. It only took me three years to figure out this solution. Genius me am. There’s also a specialty wire lock that goes around the tire, like this one available on Amazon. Hey, I live in Oakland. You learn to lock everything down. 

Within two days of Impaled’s first trip with this trailer, we managed to bend the shit out of the trailer jack. It was mounted vertically, and it only took one driveway to permanently cripple us. For a month, we couldn’t drop the trailer from the van. My brother-in-law helped me immensely by welding on this lovely swivel-mount jack. Some models can also be bolted on if you don’t have access to a brother-in-law. It goes down when you have to drop and rides horizontally when you’re in motion. You can also see the clips I use for the safety chains are Master Locks. Again, I lock down anything I can. I’ve heard one too many stories of bands’ entire trailers being stolen.

Master Lock also has some great kits available for lockable trailer and hitch pins that are keyed alike with receiver locks. I have yet to see a kit that has it all, but I try to get as many things as I can that share keys. I try to minimize the jingle jangle from my keyring that makes me look like a school janitor.

If only they’d sell these keyed-alike items along with the Master Lock hidden shackle locks I use for the trailer door, I’d be set. They’re almost TOO secure. Ask the band that borrowed my trailer, broke the key in the lock, and then had to pay a locksmith $200 to cut the entire thing in half. They got a $200 light show of sparks from a saws-all.
Here is the tongue of the trailer that we mangled on that first trip. I always keep a spare lock there just in case some numb nut loses one of the hidden-shackle locks from the back door. They’re secure, but using them also has a slight learning curve. Note the white ground wire for the trailer electrical system as well. That’s double bolted on, now. On my van, the system was grounded through the ball hitch. I always thought the loose, white wire didn’t do anything. When I tried my trailer on another van where the hitch didn’t carry the ground, I found out it did a lot. Unfortunately, I found that out after wasting a day troubleshooting the whole thing. Hey, me am genius, ‘member? 

Speaking of the electrical, the two terminal plugs literally create the lifeline to the trailer. They need to be protected. If not, your brake lights don’t work and a semi plows into you in the middle of the night. Or worse, Sheriff Bubba pulls you over for having your lights out and you end up in an Appalachian hoosegow squealing like Ned Beatty on estrogen. Either way you get plowed. The covers are available on Amazon
The time I blew the tread off the tire, I also lost a fender. 
It took me a doozy of a time finding a replacement. Us ding dang coastal elites don’t have a lot of access to trailer parts stores. Horse apples! Finally, I found a cheap one, on of all places, Amazon.com. They were easy enough to install. I drilled some pilot holes followed by self-tapping screws right into the trailer frame. Then I found out why these fenders were so cheap. 
The began rusting right away. Turns out, they weren’t anodized or something, I really don’t know. The point is, they were dog shit. Still, I managed to polish this turd. I had to remove the fenders and sand off the rust with a wire brush drill bit. Then I got this stuff, Rust-Oleum galvanizing compound spray paint. A good couple coats of this, and the cheap steel fender was coated with a layer of rust-resistant zinc particles. 
That fender light also had to be replaced with something similar to this link. In theory it’s not hard, as there’s a single spliced power lead to each running light. The running light has one lead to attach to the power and one ground lead that gets attached to any metal part of the grounded trailer. The hard part was getting to those leads. 
To get to the electrical system and replace the lights lost to random war wounds, I’d had to take out all of the plywood inside the trailer. These sheets were seamed with 2″ wide, very thin trim wood. It all broke as I ripped at the plywood. I couldn’t find anything like it at the local Soul Depot. I went to the local lumber yard, Ashby Lumber. The friendly staff helped me find a solution: a cheap sheet of wood veneer door skin. I had them cut it into 1.5″ strips, for a meager $1 a cut. 

The veneer strips were easily fastened over the seams between plywood panels with nothing more than staple gun. Now all the edges of the ply were covered. I also repainted the sheet metal on the corners and caulked the bottom of the trailer for extra protection against moisture. I happen to like my musical equipment on the un-wet side. 

One awesome device I’ve yet to get, but highly recommend, is a tire claw. Wolves in the Throne Room had one for their trailer when I toured with them. Similar to the boot you get from the San Fascist Police Department when you forget to move your car in SF, it locks down on your trailer tire and keeps it from being moved. This is good when you have to drop your trailer, or even when you’re just parked for the night. Like Mulder and Scully, you should trust no one. 
A few other handy tips with a trailer is to try and stock up on spare lights and other bits when you’re hitting that all-night truck stop in Nebraska. I’ve found, as an urban boy, these can be hard items to get in the city. 
Check your lug nuts on your tires and make sure they actually turn. I got my trailer from a guy who used to live in Minneapolis. The Great Lakes had rusted the lug nuts shut. Gentle giant Max of Hammers of Misfortune took a crack at it and ripped the bolts completely in half. It cost us a tour day getting them removed and replaced when a tire went flat before we’d even left San Francisco back in 2009. Worse than that, I was stuck in Max’s apartment all day waiting and was forced to watch this new show, True Blood. 
Finally, before any long trip, your axle should get greased. That’s true on a couple levels, but in this case I’m talking about the trailer. 
It’s easy to do yourself with a grease gun. Pop off the lube cover and just give the hole a couple pumps. Yeah. If this is just too much for you to take, bring the trailer into a mechanic. Just don’t wink a lot when you say, “I need my axle greased.” 

Doktor Ross Sewage
www.doktorsewage.com

Mondo Morley Medicale: PWO Power Wah

What is it about these big, chrome, noise-making monstrosities of ’70s tech that I find so appealing? The answer is in the question, really. Just before Christmas, I couldn’t resist just getting the damn thing for myself: a Morley PWO Power Wah. eBay, you are a wicked temptress. 
Morley Power Wah Fuzz, but it was necessary to apply some salve. 
The first problem was the actual effect. It was doing something, but it was all wrong. The wah effected half way, then went silent, then effected opposite as the foot treadle was moved on its axis. I suspected immediately that it was the curtain that rolled over the light dependent resistor inside the pedal. These things were taped in place originally… thirty years ago. When I opened it up, it sure as shit was flapping about. I removed the flap.

You can see it’s just masking tape that’s supposed to be holding it all together. I marked where it was and simply taped the curtain back in place. Easy, peasy, nice and squeezy.
If you have everything in place, the foot pedal will roll the curtain over the LDR and block the light from the power indicator as it’s pressed towards the heel. You can adjust the LDR slightly to allow more light on it, carefully so as to not break the leads. The curtain can also be adjusted with the nut attaching it to the foot pedal. 

The wah was working well now. In fact, really well. I like the PWO wah sound a lot more than the already incredible wah sweep on the Power Wah Fuzz. It has a richer body to it, allowing a more full range of frequency to come through. I also like the fact that this is one of the rarer Morley pedals that doesn’t double as a volume pedal, like the Wah-Volume WVO. On the PWO, the treadle can be left at any angle and engaged into wah mode. On the WVO, you’re subject to where the treadle is set for volume when you want to engage the wah.

Next up, I tackled the aesthetics. Hey, if you’re gonna have a huge, chrome box taking up stage real estate, it better look sharp. This guy had a lot of dimpling in the chrome finish that led to big rust spots. The spots look worse than they are as oxidization spreads. The best thing to do is get rid of as much as you can with a fine 000 grade steel wool pad rub down.

Pretty soon, I had polish you could see your reflection in. If it ain’t chrome, it ain’t got the tone. The dimpling in the chrome is still there and will cause problems with rust in the future. Polishing is no longer for vanity, it’s to keep this thing from rotting. 

The bottom of the pedal was pretty fucked. The rubber feet were gone and it had velcro from being on someone’s pedal board. Nasty masking tape was also on there. It all had to go. This is where A.D.D. is a blessing and curse… does the bottom of the pedal really matter?

I had to get a little more aggressive on this part. The bottom is made of sheet metal and not chrome plated. It requires sandpaper to polish. I started with a 320 grit and moved up to 600 and ended with 1200 for as fine a polish as I could get. I replaced the feet with some generic sticky-backed rubber feet available at Radio Shack. They are really close to the originals.

For once, the 387 power indicator bulb was actually in-tact and working. This is usually blown and folks think their pedal is dead. As a matter of course, I like to tape in a spare bulb for future generations. I believe the children are our future. Hey, that’s got a nice ring to it. I should write that down, or something.

Something about these old guys made in the ’70s… sure they take a little more massaging, but they are able to keep on ticking and kickin’ ass. Oh, and the pedals from that era keep working, too.

Doktor Wahss Sewage
www.doktorsewage.com

Operating Theater: DOD DFX94 Digital Delay / Sampler

This was another non-functioning pedal handed to me by my friend Mauz, the DOD DFX94 Digital Delay / Sampler. I’d gotten pretty cocky after I’d fixed his DOD FX9, so I took this one on with confidence.

DOD FX94

When working, the DFX94 was purported to have a spacious maximum of 4 seconds delay along with an “infinite repeat” and a sample function. I had no idea how to get any of these special functions to work as finding a DOD manual online is kind of like trying to find a funny Owen Wilson movie. What I did know was that the normal delay functions wouldn’t power up.

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Class or ass: DOD FX-17 Volume / Wah

One guitarist I played with was adamant that mute switches and volume pedals were for the unskilled. He insisted every guitar player should learn how to use their volume knob on the guitar or they shouldn’t be playing. A bold statement from a big dick. For the rest of us pussies, there’s devices like the DOD FX-17 Volume / Wah pedal, manufactured from 1987-2000.

DOD FX17

Since the first wah, people have been trying to find new ways to do the same thing. First it was the Crybaby style pinion gear to turn the pot and then a pulley system to get more sweep, but that could always lead to scratchy pots. Morley invented the LDR light-based system with a movable curtain to avoid scratchy pots, but the curtain system took up some room.

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MXR Distortion+ sees the light

John Cobbett of Hammers of Misfortune is an old school kind of guy and I’m not just making age jokes. He runs a Marshall JCM800 for some transparent rockin’ tone from his ’70s Les Paul guitar. A great set-up and dead easy. Maybe too easy. When it comes to leads, it can be hard to pop out over a six-piece prog band. With no boost channel to switch to, Cobbett uses another classic, the MXR Distortion+ guitar pedal. It subtly boosts his tone and adds some more skreem to those licky lixxx.

MXR Distortion+

After losing his first one, John picked up this “beauty” off of eBay. Back when we played together in a band, I was just starting to dick around with all my own pedals. Cobbett asked if it was possible to add a power indicator light to his Distortion+. It was and is. Looking back, though, I think I could’ve done it better.

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Operating Theater: DOD DFX9 digital delay

My jefe, Mauz, handed me this broken hunk of gear in the hopes I could figure out what was wrong. The DOD DFX9 digital delay was a pretty cool pedal back when it worked, he assured me. I put it in a drawer for a few months until I got around to check it out. I was dubious about taking on the repairs of some cheap-o digital pedal.

DOD DFX9

The DFX9 was DOD’s shot at BOSS, their far east competition. BOSS’s DD series of compact digital delays had become quite popular in the ’80s and was surpassing older, analog delays like the DOD FX90. Self-proclaimed as “America’s pedal,” DOD would not go down without a fight. Non-functioning and with the jacks falling out, Mauz’s DFX9 pedal was a casualty of the war that DOD lost. FYI, I got ADD about curing the DFX9 of its PTSD ASAP.

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